Chef Jacqueline Margulis runs a little French café in San Francisco’s storied North Beach neighborhood. It’s focused entirely on soufflé, both entrees and desserts. There’s Gruyere, lobster, leek, lemon, chocolate Grand Marnier and a dozen more savory and sweet. 

In a city with 28 Michelin-starred restaurants, Café Jacqueline feels like it’s from another time. There’s no website, the staff doesn’t answer the phone. Reservations are made by leaving a message. Since Margulis opened the cafe 45 years ago in a former shoe shop, little has changed. And she makes each exquisite soufflé herself — one by one. 

At age 88, almost 89, she’s whisking, beating, folding for five hours a night. It’s a wonder, especially because she fell and broke her shoulder just a few months ago. And now a fresh obstacle: the eggs. A case of eggs from Margulis’ supplier went from $75 a year ago to $230 now, more than a 200% increase. She raised prices, $5 more per soufflé. So far, she says, not a single complaint.

One wonders, though, when will the chef put down her whisk?

“I don’t want to fall into my eggs, you know. I don’t know when I’ll hang my apron. It’s part of you, and yet you have to give it up,” she said.